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Marvao.

Only 10kms [5 miles] from the Spanish border and with superb natural defences Marvao has been fought over for over a thousand years; the Moors were responsible for the village's first wall upgrade in 715 AD. Since Christians arrived in 1160 and extended fortifications Marvao was mainly of use against Portugal's old enemies, the Spanish, but oddly, the only time that the village was captured was in a civil war, when the Liberals used a secret entrance to take Marvao from the Royalists in 1833.

There are lovely, quaint little posadas and restaurants all over the hill that offer excellent hospitality in a more than tranquil context, and views and photos are all the better in the late afternoon or early morning, so stay overnight if you can, but book in advance in high season.

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Portugal Photos © Julian Loader