Papua
New Guinea Pictures
PNG Photos
A
Sing Sing festival participant, Mt Hagen, PNG.
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on the face to see sixteen pages of PNG Photos or go below to
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Papua
New Guinea Images: Highlands Pictures
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Sepik
River Pictures | Trobriand
Islands Photos
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New Guinea Travel Guide | PNG
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Papua
New Guinea is a fascinating, brilliantly colourful
country offering thick green landscapes and a fistful of unique
cultures - with Huli wigmen in the Highlands, Sepik River Crocodile
cultists and sensual Trobriand islanders offshore for starters.
All these folk dress to kill [sometimes literally], and welcome
PNG travellers taking pictures - after all if you had spent several
years in wig school or hours getting made up in war paint you'd
want someone to take home photos of your style too.
Rascals
and Razorbarb:
Security, or lack of it, is one reason why there are relatively
few tourists in Papua New Guinea, whereas across the border in
Indonesia they are overrun by big spenders. Mental pictures of
large, muscular men wielding little axes can be discouraging.
Some think the problem has arisen from a combination of over-education
and inebriation. Young men are educated to have high expectations,
become dissatisfied with the simple rustic life and leave their
villages and tribal law for the town. In place of
the pot of gold they find gangs of lost souls in the same jobless
boat, and cans of golden brew for consolation. Thus a rascal is
born.
The
problem is acute in two or three large towns, with the scattered
capital of Port Moresby as #1 on the hit list, leading to the
popularity of security guards, dogs and razorbarb hi-tech
barbed wire that is effectively an endless, coiled razor blade
and looks sensational when entwined with and perfumed by the omnipresent
Hibiscus or Frangipani blossoms.
Budget
travellers are a rare sight in PNG because locals stay and eat
with wantoks, so inexpensive hotels and restaurants are few and
far between, and not particularly safe. The only really secure
way to travel is first class. Excellent, secure hotels can be
found in all locations of interest, but at a price. So go lukluk,
yu klia gut wantok?
Main
activities in Papua New Guinea, apart from people
watching involve hiking - including the famous Kokoda Trail or
climbing around or up 4,000 metre Mt Wilhelm, bird watching -
especially Birds of Paradise, boating down the Sepik River or
around the Trobriand Islands and scuba diving.
Crocodile
Cults: The Sepik river is the PNG's answer to
the Amazon. A long, lazy stretch of muddy water patrolled by mosquitoes
the size of golf balls, the Sepik drifts by scattered villages
on stilts that hold more of Papua New Guinea's unique contributions
to el mundo loco. Curly roofed Haus Tambarans house the local
spirits, as well as superbly grotesque shell masks, penis gourds
and other vital bric-a-brac on offer to passing travellers.
Crocodile symbolism is a recurring theme here, though the overhunted
reptiles are rarely seen these days. House stilts, canoe prows
and masks bear toothy carvings that remind locals of the days
not long gone when young men hunted crocs by wading and stamping
through chest deep water. When they trod on a dozing croc it was
a race to see who grabbed who first. Macho times.
These days some men carry croc scars, but they get them from a
tribal elder during a rite of manhood, not from an outraged reptile.
After spending several months closeted in the exclusively male
Haus Tambaran, being educated in the ways of the tribe, the young
man's back and chest are deeply cut with razor blades in a pattern
that imitates crocodile scales. Tree oil is rubbed in to disinfect
the gashes, followed by mud to ensure the cuts heal as raised
keloid scars.
Thus
in one painful day the youth excises his mother's blood, and aquires
the power and cunning of the crocodile. Physically the end result
is both grotesque and appealing. Could this be a future fad in
European body design?
Getting
Wrecked:
Very few people ever dive in Papua New Guinea, yet Tony Wheeler
of the Lonely Planet Guide says that 'going to PNG without looking
under the water would be like going to Nepal and not looking at
the mountains,' and many professional divers claim that Papua
New Guinea dives are second only to the Red Sea.
There are hundreds of kilometers of coral reef, much of it immediately
offshore and untouched by human fin. The waters are warm and fertile,
but the fishing industry is undeveloped, so large schools of large
fish such as Sharks, Rays, Sailfish, Killer Whales and Dolphin
are frequently sighted.
But the best reason to dive in PNG is the wrecks. The waters are
littered with coral tufted ships and planes, mostly dating from
the Japanese invasion of 1942. These reminders that imperialism
doesn't pay can be as little as six metres down, with excellent
visibility, and vary from armed merchant ships to a more-or-less
intact B-25 Bomber.
The Bomber is magic. It rests at 15 meters, fully loaded with
bombs, machine-gun bullets, diverse corals and fish. A huge barrel
sponge balances on one wingtip, and purple fan corals stroke the
undercarriage. The cockpit, from where you can see the bombs still
in their racks, is home to a couple of kilos of understandably
nervous minnows, while the bomb bay houses a clan of monster crayfish.
The twin 50 cal. machine-guns of the upper gun turret are neatly
delineated by cute pink coral. Here lies a sophisticated and costly
killing machine gradually metamorphosing into a blue-tinted piece
of surreal, animated, marine sculpture. All credit to Mother Nature,
the supreme artist.
Best
time to travel in Papua New Guinea: May-October.
Worst: Dec-April [the wet season].
Papua
New Guinea Pictures © Julian Loader
Images
of neighbouring countries: Australia
| Indonesia
| Fiji
| South
Pacific Beaches
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