Stonehenge, Wiltshire
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Stonehenge
cremation burial remnants have been carbon-dated to 3030-2880 BC [5,000 years ago], about when Stonehenge’s ditch-and-bank monument was cut into Salisbury Plain. Between 150 and 240 people were buried here over a 600 year period in increasing numbers, along with ceremonial weapons, leading archeologists to believe that this may have been a monumental tomb of a single family, perhaps an ancient royal family.
The
World Heritage Site of Stonehenge
is set in gently rolling, rural Salisbury plain, Wiltshire county,
an hour or two driving from London. It's a wonderfully bare
but fitting location, though slightly degraded by two smallish
roads passing nearby. Naturally, as one of England's top monuments,
it's heavily visited, though the English Heritage organisation
have done a good job in concealing the visitor centre and car
parks and keeping internal fencing to the minimum.
Excellent
multi-lingual personal audio players are included in the reasonable
entry fee and offer clear and comprehensive information on all
aspects of Stonehenge.
The walking route circles the stones at an acceptable distance,
though touching is forbidden. Stonehenge photos are of course,
permitted.
Stonehenge
is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day and
also difficult to access on the days
before and after the summer [June 21] and winter solstices [December
21] as the police try to control 20,000 or so overnighting Pagans,
Druids, Gypsies, New Age Travellers, Ravers and wackos of every
description from getting high on the stones, literally and metaphorically.
Phyical access to the stones is not permitted [due to potential vandalism] except on midsummer night [the Summer Solstice, see below] or by permission from the English Heritage organisation [www.english-heritage.org.uk].
If a tourist feels like getting touchy with ancient stones and not around in mid June then the best thing to do is to head for Avebury where similar stones - though smaller - are charmingly located and accessible.
Stonehenge
area map picture

Typical Summer Solstice regulations and access [but no guarantees they'll be the same this summer]:
The summer solstice occurs around 5.00am on June 21st.
The car park opens at 8pm on June 20th and is free, as
is entry to Stonehenge, opening at 10pm. Car park admission
closes at 8am on June 21st and the site closes at 9am June 21st.
No
backpacks, sleeping bags or other large bags are allowed onto
the site, nor are large amounts of alcohol. Personal use quantities
only!
Also no glass [i.e. bottles of booze. Plastic is OK], dogs,
cycles, camping equipment, chairs, fireworks, fire making equipment
or amplified musical instruments are permitted on the site,
though kids in push chairs are OK.
Special
car parks, ambient lighting, heated braziers, drinking water,
toilet facilities, meeting points, stewards, first aid, emergency
services and refreshment areas and local camp sites are organised
by English Heritage. Weather guarantees are not, and so it
rains.
Public
buses run from Salisbury Railway and Bus Stations to Stonehenge
from the evening of June 20th to early morning of June 21st. Return runs go from about 6.00am until 9.00am June 21st.
Visitors
are permitted to touch the stones but not the climb, stand
or lean on them.
At
the 2004 summer solstice 150
police battled with 300 individuals determined to climb the
stones, resulting in a hospital trip for 12.
Meanwhile King Arthur Pendragon, Battle Chieftan of the Council
of British Druids, presided over a night-long flaming torch
dance near the Heal Stone - the summer sunrise marker - backed
by dozens of well-lit drummers, while psychedelic cloaks whirled,
Tibetan Hand Bells chimed, fragrant herbal aromas wafted through
the damp air and the lunatics took over the asylum.
Stonehenge
opening times are roughly:
16
March - 31 May, 9.30am - 6pm.
1
June - 31 August, 9am -7pm.
1
September - 15 October, 9.30am-6pm.
16
October - 15 March, 9.30am - 4pm.
Stonehenge
area map picture
Stonehenge's
first design
was a simple circular earth bank and ditch with a central sanctuary.
About
500 years later a wooden structure was built there and then
around 2950 BC a powerful Neolithic chieftain was spurred by
his priests to upgrade this to a monumental religious edifice
by dragging eighty large bluestones on sledges 240 miles [385km]
from Wales, shaping them and arranging them in a double circle.
Larger Sarsen stones [a kind of sandstone] and lintel stones
arrived a few years later from Avebury, a mere twenty miles
[30km] away.
Although
the large vertical stones were clearly tipped into pre-dug holes,
then levered upright, how primitive man persuaded the massive
lintel stones to settle on top of the verticals - into pre-carved
joints - is something of a mystery.
The
Stonehenge circle is aligned to midsummer sunrise and midwinter
sunset
in addition to some special moon phases, but this astronomical
alignment probably had more to do with the timing of pagan rituals
than determining optimum agricultural timing, i.e. when to sow
seed or when to harvest.
Ancient peoples living in very close contact with nature had
a powerful belief in the Earth Mother and Sky Father, thus the
heavily female symbolism of Stonehenge's concentric stone arrangements
- resembling a womb and vulva. To guarantee fertility of crops,
animals and families the Sky Father needed to penetrate the
Earth Mother, and this is clearly visible about 5am from 18-24th
June when the sun is bright [visible from the roadside through
the fence]. The shadow from the phallic Heel Stone enters the
vulva arch to touch the Womb [or Cult] Stone [pictured above,
though not at sunrise!].
There
are no museums at the Stonehenge site but 7 miles [10kms] away
Salisbury Museum [Cathedral Close]
has an excellent collection of artifacts, as has Devizes
Museum [Long Street].
The
Future of Stonehenge:
Stonehenge is managed by English Heritage and the surrounding
landscape by the National Trust. These two organisations are
planning, with the help of the Highways Agency, to put the larger
of the two roads in a tunnel, and to close much of the other
road, thus restoring Stonehenge to its original solitary glory.
A
new visitor centre will be located 2 miles [3km] from the stones
with considerably more facilities than the present centre, and
a land train will take visitors who prefer to ride to the site.
There is no schedule for these improvements yet as the cost
of the tunneling will be monstrous and no one is volunteering
to pick up the bill, but it's likely to happen within ten years.
Until then, well, this is still one of England's top sights
but try to see it on a sunny day out of season.
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Pictures UK © Julian Loader