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Piana to Filitosa
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Travel Guide | Filitosa
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Travelling
south from Porto/Piana to Ajaccio it's all downhill.
Before
reaching the teeming streets of Ajaccio, Corsica's capital city,
many travellers stop in clifftop Cargese, a lazy old resort
town a few kilometres south of Piana which not only offers a
relaxed tranquility but is also a mere two kilometres south
of one of the finest beaches on the west coast, Plage de
Pero, a large expanse of white sand served by a couple of
bars. Another two klicks gets to Plage du Chiuni where windsurfing
is particularly good.

The
fine old town and Citadel of Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon
Bonaparte in 1769
and now trapped by an expanding mass of concrete fakery and
steaming steel.
There's
very little the bugcrew wish to say about Ajaccio except that
we couldn't wait to get out of it. True the old town has some
charm, but prices are eye-watering while both food and service
quality are below par. And who on holiday wants to spend a couple
of hours in heavy traffic for the pleasure of a quick Citadel
walk and an over-priced meal?

Filitosa prehistoric site, with carved stone menhirs
over 5,000 years old.
A
few kilometres off the road from Ajaccio to Propriano is the
well-organised and wonderfully atmospheric ancient site of Filitosa,
one of several prehistoric places in Corsica.

The
'statue' menhirs classified as FIII, FIV, FI and FII. FV, the
finest statue is at the entrance to the park.
Sea
borne invaders arrived in Corsica from an easterly direction
in 3,500 BC, displacing the local Neolithic farmers and creating
the phallic, warrior menhirs, initially rather crudely but by
2,000 BC - during the bronze age - stonework skills developed
along with their tools, as did living conditions on the site.
Around 200-100 BC the Romans occupied Corsica, and Filitosa
fell out of common use.

The
central monument embellished with several small statue-menhirs
recovered from digs.
Filitosa
was partly fortified by 1,000 BC, people started to live in
stone huts and the site became a religious centre. At some point
the religious cults destroyed most menhirs and re-employed them
as wall fillers.

Local
uncarved rocks clearly suggest human forms that presumably triggered
the god-statue concept, probably after ingesting a few magic
mushrooms.
Filitosa
is only open Easter to October, 9 am to sunset and midday is
supposed to be the best time for shadows to accentuate
the menhir's reliefs.
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