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Morocco, kasbah

Morocco Travel Guide
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Morocco, Marrakesh water seller

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Why Travel to Morocco:

The traveller's mecca in 60s-70s, Morocco is still a fascinating mix of Islamic, Arab, African, and Berber cultures with a topping of France.
Throw in some pleasant cities, eye-boggling landscapes, colourful people, excellent beaches, good trekking, plenty of interesting shopping and there's something for everyone.
Moroccans are mostly Muslim but not too obsessive about it.

Downsides:
- Although local people are friendly, it sometimes seems that every male over 7 years old wants to be either your guide or take you to his brother's shop.
- Some salesmen can be aggressive.
- Speaking French is not essential, but extremely useful.
- There are many great places out of the way for which you will need to hire a taxi or arrange your own transport.

Morocco Travel Guide, climate:
Best: Sept-Oct, March and May [April often brings sirocco sandstorms to the desert].
OK: winter months, Nov-Feb, are generally fine and warm except in the north or up the mountains.
Worst: July, Aug. Up to and over 40C [104F] inland, though it can be the most pleasant time on the coast [unless the sea mist rolls in and obscures your southern beach!].
Ramadan can be an awkward time as many locals neither eat nor drink during the day and may be tired [Sept 13 - Oct 11 '07; Sept 1 - Sept 29 '08].

Length of stay:
Min. worthwhile stay, not incl. flights : 5 days [Marrakesh & Draa/Ziz valley drive]
Recommended: 9 days - 1 month

Morocco's main attractions:
***Marrakesh
[aka Marrakech] offers some terrific buildings - especially traditional riads, good museums and a great covered souk [market] - the best place to find good quality crafts in Morocco - but most of all Marrakech hosts Djemaa el Fna, the wackiest square in Morocco, where assorted weirdos put on performances and in the evening food stalls serve excellent local cuisine. Marrakesh Pictures
**Fès is the oldest imperial city in Morocco and has the largest medina [old city] and souks in the world, with great old walls and gates. You have to get lost in this medieval maze of 10,000 tiny streets to feel the city.
Another fine old city - Meknes, is a good day trip from Fès. Fès Pictures
***Sahara Dunes. Travel past Erfoud [to Merzouga] or Zagora [to M'Hamid] to get to the dunes at the edge of the Sahara desert, and stay two or three days or more to get a real feel for the place. Sahara Pictures
***Drive the lovely Ziz Valley from Errachidia to Erfoud - then on to Merzouga and the Sahara desert. Or along the Dràa Valley
from Ouarzazate to Zagora and on into the desert..
Also driving between Errachidia and Ouarzazate [the Kasbah Route] with snow-capped mountains, valleys, oases, villages and kasbahs is magnificent. Visit the Todra and Dadès gorges. Road Pictures
***The Atlas Mountains. Driving Errachidia - Marrakech through/beside the mountains is highly recommended; navigation is fairly easy, the roads are uncrowded and views spectacular.
**Essaouria. For a cool beach scene try this pretty blue-and-white walled seaside town, rather than the over packaged Agadir. It has an excellent beach though it is often windy and thus favoured by windsurfers.
*Casablanca is a huge modern city with not much ethnic interest bar the biggest mosque in the world and the old quarter.
*Rabat, the capital and seat of government, is smaller than Casablanca and much more traveller-friendly though still not a must-see. It's relaxed, hassle-free, has some worthy sights, fine architecture and masses of pleasant cafés.
*Tangier, Morocco's main port and only an hour by ferry from Spain has a some interesting structures, a couple of not-very-clean beaches and a run-down old town but is useful as a transit point to the magic of the rest of Morocco.

The Sahara Desert:
This notorious desert stretching across North Africa is the size of the USA but only about 25% sand. The rest is composed of volcanic hills, rock and gravel plains and some vegetation which is home to around 300 species of bird and animals such as mongooses, snakes, jackals, hares, deer, foxes and even baboons.
Desert experiences are not to be missed, though preferably on camel back and for a couple of days, including sleeping under the stars.

Activities:
Trekking:
Morocco's High Atlas offers not only mountain views but due to the relatively high rainfall there are plenty of lush valleys, rivers and waterfalls too. Villages - many home to colourful Berber people - provide comfortable accommodation.
From half-hour walks to 3-10+ days treks or horse/mule expeditions can be arranged by travel guides based in the Ourika Valley and elsewhere.
For hiking Mt Toubkal - the highest peak in the country at over 4,000m - start from Imlil and to visit Berber villages try Tafrout as a base.
April-October is the best time for Morocco hiking.
Rock Climbing: the Todra Gorge, near Tinehir.
Camel trekking: Can be arranged at the hotels in the desert area or tourist offices. Best time is Sep-Oct.
Driving: car rental is reasonable and available in most cities, driving is relaxing and some routes are amazingly beautiful. You don't need 4 wheel drive. A small Renault will do fine.
Water sports: Resorts on the coast such as Agadir, Asilah.
Windsurfing and surfing: winds and waves are regular and especially potent around Essaouira and to south.
Skiing: Oukaimeden, 70kms from Marrakesh, is popular. Best December - March.

Beaches:
The Mediterranean coast offers warmer, calmer waters than on the Atlantic side but cleanness may be a problem, such as on the beaches around Tangier.
Plage [Beach] Quemada near Al Hoceima [half way between Tangier and Algeria] is one of the best Moroccan Med beaches, tho' inevitably crowded.
On the Atlantic side waves and currents can be difficult and the water is always chilly but big, pleasant beaches are not hard to find though solitude - in season - is. e.g. just south of Tangier Grotte d'Hercule is clean and popular, as is Larache beach further down the coast.
Rabat and El Jadida both sport good beaches while foreign-friendly Essaouira and to the south is famous for constant wind so loved by wind surfers; Agadir, in the far south, sports big beaches, 300 days of sunshine a year and is the province of tour groups and monster resort hotels.
However, 20 miles+ past Agadir on the way to Tiznit are some stunning beaches visited by few [perhaps because there's a distinct shortage of hotels around here]. Sidi Rbat is possibly Morocco's best beach.

Festivals:
June, Fes Sacred Music Festival - actually wacky world music...
June, Essaouria Festival of Music.
June, Marrakech Festival of Popular Arts, 10 days of arts attack.
Aug, Imilchil Engagement Festival, 3 days of Berber instant match-making.

For some precise dates, more suggestions and information see: Exotic Festivals

Electricity:
127/220v 2 round pin plugs [like France]

Visa advice:
A 3 month permit is available on arrival to citizens of the EU, USA, Australia and New Zealand.

Cuisine:
Traditional Morocco food is nourishing though a little dull, with couscous [semolina] the national dish, served with stews of lamb, chicken and vegetables.
Main towns, like Fes, have lots of international restaurants at reasonable prices.
Alcohol is freely available to travellers/tourists.

Languages:
Arabic mainly, a lot of French and a fair amount of English in tourist areas.

Anti-tout information:
Carpet sellers and similar can be a total pain and you need to learn to handle them to enjoy your Morocco travel experience.
Look briefly at them and firmly say 'La!' [no] or 'La, shookrun' [no, thank you]. Then there's 'Mish eise hagga' [I don't want anything'] for the linguists.
If you're getting on well with a Moroccan say 'al hamdou lillah' [praise God] when you/he mention something positive, or 'Inshallah' [God willing] when you discuss the future e.g. "See you tomorrow Hamed. Inshallah." He will be
delighted!

Anti-hassle advice:
Moroccans can be lovely, hospitable people if you get the chance to know them. However... most offers of hospitality such as 'come in for a cup of tea!' - in regular travel destinations will result in a sales campaign. So don't accept any.
- don't trust what young men on the street tell you and don't tell them where you're staying.
- be very clear and firm about your needs; indecision and vagueness could lead to unwanted pressure.
- all sorts of tricks are used to develop a relationship that will lead to sales, from the simple 'where are you from' to 'could you tell me what this says'. Best to reply distantly to greetings and nothing more...
Sad, isn't it? But Morocco really is worth the hassle and non-sales people are relaxed, friendly and generous!

Women travellers:
The hassle-factor for lone females or even pairs can be tough. Do wear very conservative clothing - certainly not tank tops or short skirts and preferably long everything, plus a headscarf. Stay with crowds and away from solitary low-light areas.
Essaouira beach has a problem with large groups of rampant teenage boys.

Morocco Tours

If you plan to travel to Morocco you may also want to visit the neighbours while you're there:

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